January 21, 2008

a Ferry tale...

I left Todos Santos early for the fifty mile ride back to La Paz to catch the Ferry to Mazatlan. While I didnt have to be to the docks until 1p, I wanted to get some e-mails out and have a big breakfast before hopping on the ferry. This is a shot from the cocina on the malecon in La Paz where I ate and contemplated my ride across this sea. To be honest, I was nervous about the trip, and with good reason. The ferry company had exchanged hands numerous times over the last ten years, and more concerning was that I had just talked to a guy in Loreto who rode the ferry about five years ago. Long story short, the ferry sank. Fortunately everyone on board was succesfully loaded onto the life boats and made it to their destination. However that wasnt the end of the story; the guy tells me that the Mexican government would not allow any passengers to depart the country until they had each paid to have their vehicles pulled out of the Sea! Dear Jesus! I gave St Christopher a big kiss before I headed to the docks. Here is a shot of the ferry. Doesnt look bad, 'eh?


I had never been on a boat this big before. They loaded up all the semi's, light trucks, and cars before the two motorcycles and couple of bicycles that were also going across. While I had to wait two hours for them to do so, my bike and I would be the first one off the ferry. Sounded good to me! Here is a shot of the belly of the beast being loaded with a semi.

Once aboard, we had some company guiding us out of the harbor:
and these guys too...
I went first class. but keep in mind this is first class Mexican style. The ferry was really old, worn, and duct taped everywhere. There was also the strong odor of pesticide hanging in the air as they must have just sprayed it down. The cabin though was functional and served its purpose:
I met the owners of the three bicycles and the other motorcycle. A couple from Quebec was on two of the bicycles and were heading to Peru, where they would then fly back to Quebec after visiting Machu Pichu. Another Quebec couple were riding two up on a motorcycle to Tiera Del Fuego on a 650cc motorcycle!





The other bicyclist, Roei, is my hero. he flew himself, his gear and bicycle from Israel to Prudhoe Bay in Alaska about a year ago to start his bicycle trip around the world. He is half way through his first leg traveling down to Tierra del Fuego before taking a plane across to Africa. for the next leg.

He is truly an inspiration. You have to check out his web site: http://www.icq.com/specials/bike/ We all talked throughout the night and shared stories and information, do's and dont's, and the benifits of technology for today's adventurers. My best night yet and confirmed in my own mind that I wasnt alone or crazy. Okay, maybe just not alone...


I was happy to see these aboard.


Pretty ferry rope...

Another day about to slip away.

While I must admit, I was secretly and half-heartedly hoping for a ride in the life rafts, we safely made it across to Mazatlan...


The ride across to Mazatlan was 18 hours. When the Pacific met the Cortez, about half way across, this ferry and all aboard, were being rocked and rolled like I have never been before! Many folks got sick and the ferry hands were making a mint selling drugs to them. I was fine, and didnt need to rock myself to sleep on this night!
Roei and I had lunch in Mazatlan and walked up to and around the Market in old town Mazatlan. We enjoyed each others company for the afternoon before he set off for Tepic, about a three day ride for him. We wished each other safe travels and both looked forward to seeing each other again down the road.
I have to get my laundry rolled and back into the stuff sack and plan the remainder of the trip so will post again at my next stop. My love to all of you and La Paz to every one!






the end of the road in Baja...

Loreto is a beautiful city with much to do and see. Here are a few pictures of el centro on or near the plaza.
The residential streets here have some beautiful homes...

I think Rob and I could be very happy in Loreto in our old age. They have all the services you need and its not too bad of a drive to San Diego if you need a US fix.

Skirting the Cortez Sea and on to La Paz, ("Peace" in english), I stayed at the Posada De Sol. A great 10 room hotel just west of el centro. Here is a picture of the sun setting just off the malecon in el centro.
I rode out of La Paz to Todos Santos, determined to get a good deal on a room at the Hotel California:

But they wouldnt bargain. 2000 pesos a night, ($200. US). So while someone was "living it up at the Hotel California" it wasnt me. I stayed across the street for 350 pesos and slept comfortably and safely waking up to my usual morning set up of Starbucks espresso... My riding gear doesnt amount to much down here..

Todos Santos has an awesome bookstore. As I hunkered down here for a few hours reading, it reminded me of home, when Robin and I would make our weekly visit to the best bookstore in the world, Tattered Cover.

I clebrated the great hotel rate with a sit down dinner. Best shrimp fajitas and Margarita I ever had.

I will post more tomorrow, whilst doing some laundry, of the ferry ride across the Cortez. It was first class, Mexican style...

a Whale tale and the Cuesta de Infierno


Myself and two new friends, Patrick from Germany and Tony from Alaska, spent almost three hours in a Panga on the San Ignacio lagoon with the Gray Whales. The ride to get their was a merciless 4x4 dirt road for two and one-half hours. But I would have walked it if I had to.

We spent two of the three hours actually playing with a mother and her newly born calf. We all scratched and rubbed them. I actually put my arms around the head of the calf as she nudged up against the panga. When i scratched her tail, she slapped it down into the water, soaking all of us. Unfortunately this ended my picture taking as the camera got all wet. (it still works fine though!). The mother, in this picture, sprayed us with her blow from about three feet away on several ocassions.

The calf would raise her head, and one eye completely out of the water and stare at us for 10 to 15 seconds at a time. It was truly a religous experience. My friends and I will be posting all of our pics to Flickr sometime soon so will send along more pics then. Hopefully they got a shot of me giving the calf a big hug.













Leaving San Ignacio and SE to the "Grade to Hell"; a 5k decline into the valley where Santa Rosalia is located. It's a narrow two lane road, skirting the Cortez Sea. When semi's are coming from the other direction, they take up half your lane as well, making the lean out of, and around the tight corners, pretty scary. The cars have to pull over, however I can negotiate on my bike though it did make me "pucker up" once or twice!















Here is my first glimpse of the Sea of Cortez:


The ride has been special, the people are rich in spirit, and the vibe is muy tranquilo.











I arrived in Loreto yesterday. Spending the night here:

Hope all is well with all of you. Sorry to hear about the Pack but they had a great season!